We built this pretty table in 48 hours, literally. We gave ourselves only a couple of days to make this table and we did it! It's a simple plan, and really anyone can build it with minimal woodworking skills, so we thought we'd share with you guys how we built it!
The sketch above is a simple layout of how the table goes together and the pieces of wood you'll need. (The finished table measures 2.5'Wx30"Hx8'L.)
- Skirting - 3 pieces of 1"x4"X8' pine boards. Cut 2 pieces at 92" long, and cut 2 pieces 24" long.
- Legs - 1 piece of 4"x4"x10' pine = cut 4 pieces to 29".
- Cross Braces - 1 piece of 2"x2"8' pine - cut 4 pieces to 24" long for cross braces under the table top and between table legs (braces between legs are optional).
- Table Top - 3 pieces of 2"x10"x8' pine boards.
- Dowel to cover screws on table top (optional). 1 piece of 3/8 wooden dowel.
- 2.5" brass wood screws (We have a box of the Grip Rite brand).
- Wood glue (for securing wooden dowel over screws).
- Espresso colored wood stain, or any color stain you like.
- Dutch oil.
- Treats for breaks. (Soda, candy, chips, etc.)
Tools needed: Everyone uses different tools to get the same job done; this isn't a must have list, this is just what we used to build this table. Also, it's good to note that Home Depot will cut (straight lines only) wood for you too. So for the big cuts that may require a big saw that you don't have, just have an attendant make those cuts for you before you leave the store.
- Saw to cut large pieces of wood (table saw, chop saw, hand saw, etc.).
- Japanese back saw and coping saw or chisel (for making dove tails for your table skirting pieces. Making the the dove tail joints is optional however; you can just join the edges and screw them together. Just make sure to adjust the pieces correctly so your measurements don't get messed up (tip about how to do that later on).
- Drill gun.
- 1/16" drill bit and 3/8" drill bit.
- Sand paper and sanding block.
- Brushes and/or rags for varnish.
First, assemble the 1"x4" pieces of wood to make a box that will be your table skirting. Use your Japanese saw and coping saw or chisel to make dove tail joints, or just have the ends meet. (Tip: If you choose to meet the ends, have the short ends on the outside, this way your measurements wont get messed up).
Next, screw the legs in place at each corner of the skirting/box you just assembled.
Cut notches on the top sides of the skirting that will receive the length of 2"x2" wood you cut for cross braces and screw them down into the skirting (refer to the sketch for visual placement).
Lay 1 of your table top boards across the center of the table and screw it down into the skirting and the cross braces. But, first drill a 3/8" pilot hole half way through the table top board. This will allow you to sink the screw, so you can cover up the heads of the screws with pieces of wooden dowel.
Once the center table top piece is in place, similarly attach the other two table top pieces on each side.
Cut pieces of dowel to fill the screw holes, gluing them in place with wood glue. When the glue is dry cut the dowel flush with the surface of the table top using a Japanese back saw.
To finish your table, sand it smooth and then stain it. When the stain has dried, add a few coats of Danish oil. Done and done!
Below are photos of our process. Notes about our aesthetics: We wanted our table to look old so after sanding it we banged it up a bit with a few different hammers and a length of chain. The finished table looks just as we imagined. We also made a point to choose heavily knotted wood for added texture to the finished table.
These table plans are simple enough for you to re-size bigger or smaller depending on your table needs. Happy building!